Neighbor of the Illampu, the massif of the Ancohuma (6427 m) is located at the extreme north of the Cordillera Real, was climbed for the first time by the Germans Schulz and Dienst in 1919.

This summit is one of our favourite in the Cordillera Real.

The ascent of Ancohuma without being technically engaged, however, requires a good experience of glacial races: the summit has to be earned and you will have to show patience and endurance to discover its treasures.

You will first need to climb to the Glaciar Lagoon located at 5,045 m. For this, you have the choice between climbing the 2,400 m drop from Sorata or ride with a 4x4 up to 3,950 meters above the sea level and thus save yourself almost 1,300 m drop! Less glorious but to be meditate...

After the Glaciar Lagoon, few efforts on cliffs and along the glaciar tongue will be needed to reach the next camp, rocket launch to the summit (6427 m).

The views are breathtaking on a glacial cirque formed by the Illampu, Huayna Illampu and Pico Schulz.

This climb is a real pleasure: Ancohuma is definitely a summit not to be miss ...

Technical and Difficult Ascent (D/IV)

AncohumaClimbs / descentsWalking Time
Day 1 > Lagune Chilata+ 1600 m6 to 7h
Day 2 > Lagune Glaciar+ 900 m / - 55 m5h
Day 3 > Base Camp+ 330 m2h
Day 4 > Altitude Camp+ 465 m / - 20 m3h
Day 5 > Lagune Glaciar+ 750 m / - 1425 m11 to 13h
Day 6 > Sorata- 2450 m7 to 8h