Anne in “The American Alpine Journal”!

21 October 2016


What a feat!

We’re very proud to have Anne Bialek featured in an article in the famous American Alpine Journal, a veritable bible for international mountaineers!

Anne has many ascents to her credit, including the opening of a new route on the south face of Illimani on 22 June 2015! “La Directa Boliviana” (3) with Hugo Ayaviri and Rolando Tarqui. Read the original article: “Illimani, South Face, Variation to Original Route” Bolivia, Cordillera Real. Climbs and Expeditions. Authors : Anne Bialek and Aimee Verdisco


This is also an opportunity to look back at his career and the history of his climbs:

2005: first 6,000 m peak, Huayna Potosi


2006: Pequeño Alpamayo and Licancabur


2008: Huayna Potosi for the second time and Uturuncu


2009: Aconcagua (Argentina), Parinacota and Acotango, Tête du Condor and Pequeño Alpamayo again


2010: my 40th birthday, the most difficult year for me personally. I was about to spend my first birthday on my own and I felt I had to give my life a meaning. So I decided to be at the summit of Illimani on the morning of my 40th birthday. Illimani normal route

Attempt at Sajama with Sergio and failure due to a snowstorm.


2011: the year of change, when I decided to take charge of my life and prove to myself that I was capable of achieving personal feats. It all started with the Santiago marathon!

Chachacomani, Chearoco (but not all the way to the summit, only as far as Pic Anne!), Chaupi Orco, Pico Schulz, Illampu (the big test, because it’s the most technical of all the normal routes in the 6000s; for me, if I managed to do Illampu, I’d be entering the world of mountaineers and I felt capable of trying harder), Sajama, and in November the West Face of Huayna Potosi (first major route).

Then in Argentina, Ojos del Salado (6900m) and Pissis (6800m).


2012: Chachacomani again and Chearoco (to the summit this time) with a reconnaissance trip with the team of mountain guides. A few climbs in the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz (Don Luis or Tres Maria, San Enrique and Jankho Loma), Ancohuma, Alto Toroni and the Illimani traverse (second major experience).


2013: Crossing the Pomerape (last 6000m of the 13), Right Wing of the Condor, Expedition in the Cordillera Apolobamba with 5 summits (Ullakaya, Condorini, Cololo, Huanacuni and Chaupi Orco), Direct route of the Pequeño Alpamayo.

On 8 May 2013, an article entitled: “First female ascent of all bolivias 6000ers” was published on the website of The British Mountaineering Council. Anne is presented as the only woman to have climbed every Bolivian peak over 6,000 metres!

Two projects failed this year: the French route of Huyana due to an avalanche and the South Face of Illimani (first approach in July, route opened for Sergio as a scouting exercise, planned for 2014, but completed in 2015).


Winter 2013: Ecuador with Cotopaxi (5897 m), Cayambe (5790 m), Iliniza Sur (5248m) and Chimborazo (6310)


2014: Voie des Français in Huayna Potosi, ascent of Janq’u Uyu (5515 m) and Pach’a Pata (5650 m), ascent of Gorra de Hielo (5740 m) and North Peak of Illampu (6070 m)


Winter 2014: Colombia with Pan de Azucar (5215 m), Concavo (5200 m) and Ritacuwa Blanco (5333 m)


2015: Crossing the ridges between Janq’u Uyu and Chachacomani, Chachacomani with the Thaki Voyage agency team, ascent of Janq’u Laya (5535 m).

Normal route of Illimani for the second time. Opening of a route on the South Face, the Directe Boliviana (24 hours of climbing, my third major experience). Akamani in the Cordillera Apolobamba (5415m)


2016 : Ascent of Kasiri. Complete crossing of Illampu and Illimani (for the second time). Opening of a route in the Condoriri massif (Cola del Condor).