Discovery of the Huanacuni

His first ascent is attributed to the Germans, Karl Warner, Hans Wimmer and Hans Richter in 1957.

From the enchanting camp we called Campo Cololo located on the Chonkormani Lagoon, we leave this time to attack the Huanacuni further north-west of the camp.

A long approach walk, from a trail of llamas allows us to reach the edge of the glacier at 5185m. The progress is very quiet and steeper (45 °) to reach the peaks, located at 5500m altitude, at daybreak. It is hard to hold the tears at the beauty of this large meringues topped ridge above steep, vertiginous walls.


The progression to the main peak (5795m) is only happiness and glare. The summit is bare of snow and this rocky outcrop does not leave much room for the brave andinists to stay and celebrate their victory. From up there, the ridges continue north. The descent is impossible, or at least dangerous by the tumbling walls of the ridge. We have to retrace our steps to a pass at 5300m. From there, we can choose to go back to our enchanting camp or switch to the next valley and camp north of Huanacuni peaks.