Ancohuma Ascent

This glacier in the Cordillera Real has splendid views of the Illampu, the Huayna Illampu and the Pico Schulz. Uncrowded, you will feel alone in the world surrounded by nature: a real pleasure! This 5-day circuit, however, requires experience in ice racing because its ascent is quite technical and is especially well underway with a level (AD + / IV).

Overview :

Length of stay :

5 days on the spot.

Transport :

private vehicle

Entry of the sites :

variable

Guide :

IFMGA english speaking guide (subject to availibity)

Altitude of the journey:

from 3.600 to 6.427 m asl

Best moment of year :

from May to October

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Steps and highlights:

Main steps:

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 5

Highlights:

  • A splendid ascent, with one of the most glacial surroundings of the Royal Cordillera.
  • This is a summit that is earned, good enough for a good expedition.

 

Day 1 : LA PAZ - SORATA (2600 M.A.S.L./8530 FEET ) - LAGUNA CHILATA (4200 M.A.S.L./13779 FEET)

More infos
Departure :

08:00 am

Accommodation :

tent

Meals included :

lunch, dinner

Altitude :

Time of transport :

4h30

Walking time :

2/3h

LA PAZ - SORATA (2600 M.A.S.L./8530 FEET ) - LAGUNA CHILATA (4200 M.A.S.L./13779 FEET)

Departure in the morning from La Paz. Drive to Titicaca Lake. Then drive down to the village of Sorata, nested in a valley floor, at the foot of Illampu and Ancohuma glaciers. Ascent above the village of Sorata, by a carriage track which goes close to the Chilata Lake, at 3950 m.a.s.l. /12959 feet of altitude. Walk to the lake.

Special information :
Change in elevation: +250 m.

Day 2 : LAGUNA CHILATA – LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 M.A.S.L./16551 FEET )

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Departure :

09:00 am

Accommodation :

tent

Meals included :

breakfast, lunch, dinner

Altitude :

Time of transport :

Walking time :

5h

LAGUNA CHILATA – LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 M.A.S.L./16551 FEET )

Progressive climbing to a breach (4400 m.a.s.l. / 14435 feet) then following a contour line under the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs. Steep way up in the rocks to the Glaciar Lake (5045m asl. / 16 551 feet). Night on the lake shore.

Special information :
Change in elevation: +900 m/-50m

Day 3 : LAGUNA CHILATA - ALTITUD CAMP (5460 M.A.S.L./17913 FEET )

More infos
Departure :

08:00 am

Accommodation :

tent

Meals included :

breakfast, lunch, dinner

Altitude :

Time of transport :

Walking time :

4h

LAGUNA CHILATA - ALTITUD CAMP (5460 M.A.S.L./17913 FEET )

We walk around the lake on its right side, towards the ice tongue. Ascent on a steep path on a rocky mountainside, to reach a plateau next to the glacier. We keep on going through the rocks, following the ice tongue. Tricky passage in the rocks before reaching the edge of the glacier. Camping next to the glacier. Possibility to set up a high camp on the glacier. In this case, we must foresee a more important logistic with porters able to walk on ice (Upon request).

Special information :
Change in elevation: +435 m/-20 m

Day 4 : ANCOHUMA ASCENT (6427 M.A.S.L./21085 FEET) – LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 M.A.S.L. /16551 FEET )

More infos
Departure :

01:00 am

Accommodation :

tent

Meals included :

breakfast, lunch, dinner

Altitude :

Time of transport :

Walking time :

12/14h

ANCOHUMA ASCENT (6427 M.A.S.L./21085 FEET) – LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 M.A.S.L. /16551 FEET )

Ascent with low technical difficulty, but engaged (AD+/IV). Departure in the night, around 1:00 am. Easy progression on ice until the foot of the massif (Around 6100 m.a.s.l. /20013 feet of altitude). Portions with steeper slopes at the end (Max 50º to 55º). Possibility to descent on the other slope. 8 to 9 hours ascending from the altitude camp. Descent to the altitude camp (3 to 4 hours). Descent to the Glaciar Lake (2 to 3 hours)

Special information :
Change in elevation: +965 m/-1425m

Day 5 : LAGUNA GLACIAR ( 5045 M.A.S.L./16551 FEET) – LA PAZ (3600 M.A.S.L./11811 FEET)

More infos
Departure :

08:00 am

Accommodation :

none

Meals included :

breakfast, lunch

Altitude :

Time of transport :

4h

Walking time :

3/4h

LAGUNA GLACIAR ( 5045 M.A.S.L./16551 FEET) – LA PAZ (3600 M.A.S.L./11811 FEET)

Harsh descent in rocks, then progression on the mountainside, below the Ancohuma and Illampu massifs. Ascent to the breach at 4400 m.a.s.l. /14435 feet. Easy descent to a carriage track, close to the Chilata Lake. Descent to the village of Sorata, and return to La Paz in vehicle.

Special information :
Change in elevation: +90 m/- 1105m

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