Located at the extreme north of the Cordillera Real, the Schulz forms a magnificent glacial cirque with the Illampu and the Huayna Illampu, a real kingdom of verticality and an ideal playground for mountain lovers. If the normal route of the Illampu is the most technical of the normal routes, the Pico Schulz offers you a fun ascent, less technical, more varied with rock passages, aerial as we like, with a sumptuous ridge. For those who do not feel like facing the imposing Illampu do not hesitate, the Schulz offers you an ideal alternative!
5 days on the spot.
Private vehicle
variable
IFMGA english speaking guide (subject to availibity)
from 3.600 to 5.900 m asl
from May to October
Day 1
Day 2
Day 5
08;00m
hotel
lunch, dinner
3h30
09:00 am
tent
breakfast, lunch, dinner
4h
Drive up in a 4WD vehicle to the village of Lacatiya. Meeting with our muleteers’ team. Easy climb until a steep scree, which becomes harder until a pass at 4850 m.a.sl./15912 feet of altitude (3 hours walk). Then, it takes 30 mn to descend to a place called “Aguas Calientes”, the base camp for Illampu (4620 m.a.s.l./15160 feet)
Special information :
Change in elevation: +900 m/-260m
09:00 am
tent
breakfast, lunch, dinner
3/4h
03:00 am
tent
breakfast, lunch, dinner
10/11h
Fairly technical ascent, with sections on rocks (D/IV). Departure in the night (Around 3 am). Approach march on the moraine to a glacial valley between Illampu and Schulz peak. Progression on the glacier through easy to fairly steep slopes until the deepness of the valley. After a wide flat section (5600 m.a.s.l./18372 feet), we go on our right to reach the foot of the cliff (3h30 walk from high camp). Section on rocks until the ridge, and then we continue until the summit. 5 to 6 hours climb from high camp.
Special information :
Change in elevation: +950m/-1375 m
08:00 am
none
breakfast, lunch
5h
3h