Gorra de Hielo & North Peak of Illampu


Discovery of the Gorra de Hielo and the Illampu

The Illampu massif has always made experienced climbers dream. Its normal track until the South peak is the most technical of all normal tracks. What we know less, is that this massif is full of beautiful surprising ascents, essentially on its East slope.


From the South Peak, the massif extends from a magnificent vertiginous ridge oriented North-East, until the North peak and a bit further the Gorra de Hielo.


To achieve these 2 last summits, you need first to reach the village of Cocooyo, in which you will feel some tropical vibes, localed on the East side of the Cordillera. Then you will need to walk on trekking paths until you reach the glacier base. The latter is located on a circus that climbers will appreciate for its numerous rocky ridges that go from the south peak of the Illampu until the point of Cocooyo, going through the North peak, the Gorra de Hielo or the peak Esperanza …

You are dreaming about difficult expeditions, try yourself in this crazy full crossing of the Illampu massif, from its north peak to south peak, such an adventure !

Gorra de Hielo (5.740 m) & North Peak of Illampu (6.070 m) ClClimbs / descentsWalking Time
Cocooyo – Base Camp+1015 m / - 70 m6 h
Base Camp – High Camp+ 780 m4 h
Ascent Gorra de Hielo+ 610 m / - 610 m8 to 10 h
Ascent North Peak Illampu+ 920 m / - 920 m13 to14 h