Chaupi Orco Ascent

Departure early in the morning for a long drive to the Apolobamba Codillera. After following the Titicaca Lake, passes and hair pins leads us to the high plateaux of the cordillera. We follow the cordillera to the north. Before reaching Pelechuco pass, close to the village of Sorapata, we fork north to the Suches mines. From there, we drive along the Suches Lake to the north-east, until the Palomani Grande camp. Beautiful camp close to a stream.

Start the day in a different way this time: sporty crossing of the stream (Or installing a rope or making a detour). We continue north, and enter a paradisiacal valley with a meandering stream, coming from a small lake with turquoise waters. Further up, we have to climb a rocky barrier above another lake, as beautiful, bigger, Chucuyo Grande lake. The view on the big glacial massif in front of us will remain forever in our memories. It’s a gigantic glacial barrier with multiple peaks. The tallest on the left is the south peak of Chaupi Orco, the highest peak of this cordillera. We go down quietly to the valley floor and set up our camp at the foot of the glaciers (Chaupi Orco base camp, 4895m.a.s.l./16059 feet) Ascent towards the glacier to a lake at 5135 m of altitude, at the foot of a pass allowing access to the glacier

Ascent moderately technical and fairly exposed (AD/III) Steep climb through rocks until a pass at 5300 m.a.s.l./17388 feet of altitude. We descend on a moraine and continue on the left along the seracs. We go up again to the ice tongue below the south peak of Chaupi Orco ( 5315 m.a.s.l./17437 feet 3 hours from camp). Progressive ascent on the glacial plateau. We progress on the left side of this plateau to fork later on the right on scarp ridges. A steeper slope (55º) leads us to the crests below the summit at 5850 m of altitude, after 3 hours climbing on the glacier. We go around a dome shaped formation on the left hand side straightforward in a steep slope, before arriving on a last plateau. Climbing to the summit takes 2 hours from the crests. We go down to 5850 m on the crests. Instead of going down straightforward in the steep slopes and the ridges, we take on the left to go around through the glacial valley (it is possible to climb through this route, less technical). Descent to the camp in 5 hours from the summit.

We climb again above the rocky barrier, and go through a pass, following a contour line without going down in the valley.

Departure in a 4WD vehicle to the Pelechuco track. Long drive to La Paz.