Chearoco Ascent

Transfer to the Royal Cordillera and the Kellhuani valley (3 hours drive). We start from house of Santos, the muleteer, at 4635 m above sea level/ 15206 feet. We start a long approach walk north-east to the end of the valley, to reach the Chearoco massif. Gorgeous views on Chearoco glacier. We have to find the best way through the “bofedal” (Swampy zone with giant mosses soaked with water) to reach the moraine and the little glacial lake nested below a rocky barrier which leads to the glacier. Camp on the glacial lakeshore, at 4750 m above sea level / 15 583 feet.

We climb to the high camp through the moraine, off-trail in a rocky chaos (around 2 hours walk). We arrive at the edge of the glacier. The place is magic. Night at the high camp, on the glacier at 5150 m above sea level / 16 896 feet.

Ascent technical and demanding (TD/III). Smooth ascent on the ice tongue, before we fork on the left and climb straightforward on the west slope. Demanding ascent (55º / 60º) until the foot of a peak, above a cracked slope (5800 m. a.s.l./19028 feet. 4 to 5 hours climb). We go through a plateau, making our way between the crevasses, until the summit ridge (5960 m a.s.l./19553 feet ) Last climb on a south-west oriented steep slope (60º / 65º) before reaching the ridge. Crossing until the main peak further on the left, a rocky peak frozen in ice. Descent on a south-east oriented ridge. 7 to 8 hours climb from high camp. Descent to high camp (2 to 3 hours) Return to base camp (1h30). Night at the base camp.

Back to the house of Santos and return by car to La Paz.