The Illampu is one of the prettiest peaks in the Cordillera Real. Its ascent is very technical (TD / IV) and is reserved for experienced mountaineers looking for sports routes. Located at the extreme north of the Cordillera Real, it forms a magnificent glacial cirque with the Pico Schulz, kingdom of verticality and ideal playground for mountain lovers.
Indicative price, excluding international flights. All nights, meals, guides and transfers included.
Plan my trip
Departure in the morning from La Paz. Road to Titicaca Lake, then descent to Sorata, a village nested deep in a valley below the Illampu and Ancohuma massifs.
Ascent with a 4WD vehicle to Lacatiya village, where we meet our muleteers’ team.Easy climb until a steep scree, which becomes harder until a pass at 4850 m.a.s.l./15912 feet of altitude (3 hours walk). Then, it takes 30 minutes to descend to a place called “Aguas Calientes”, the base camp for Illampu (Alt. 4620 m.a.s.l./15157 feet)
Climb to a plateau and walk to a valley. Once in the valley, the view opens on entire Illampu massif. We will go down a little in the valley that we climb until the high camp just below the glacier. If you're lucky you can spot condors.
Very technical ascent (TD/IV). Departure in the night (around 1 am). Approach march on the moraine to a glacial valley between Illampu and Schulz peak. Progression on the glacier through easy to fairly steep slopes until the deepness of the valley. After a flat portion, we arrive, after 3 hours walk at the foot of the cliff (5660 m.a.s.l./18569 feet). Some expeditions set up their high camp on this flat area. Long climb (1h30 to 2 hours) on this very steep wall (65º) with 350 m of height difference, to reach the ridge ( 6000 m.a.s.l./19685 feet). We continue on the ridge with steep slopes (alternating from 45º/50º to 70º) until the summit (2h30 to 3 hours)7 to 8 hours from high camp. Descent to high camp (5 hours). Return to Aguas Calientes by the normal route (2 hours). Night at the base camp.
Last climb to the pass ( 4850 m.a.s.l/15915 feet) and descent in the valley to the village of Lacatiya. Return by car to Sorata, then to La Paz.
Reach out to adjust this itinerary to your pace,
your level, your wishes.
